Eddie Abbondanzio

Building a B20 VTEC (aka B20V, aka CRVTEC) isn’t that much more difficult than building a regular B20 but it can be daunting to figure out what you’ll need for parts with so many different options out there.

Reading CEL codes for an OBD0 Honda is easy since you don’t need to jump a service connector like the OBD1 Hondas, but you do need to find the ECU so you can count how many times the red LED in the ECU blinks.

I’ve got a growing collection of nuts and bolts and started using the 20 bin storage cases (SKU: 93928) that Harbor Freight sells to keep them all organized.

Working on your XJ’s suspension and need a torque spec?

There’s only 6 capacitors in the 1988 - 1989 Integra ECU but getting to them can be a pain since the ECU is hidden underneath the passenger seat.

The ZJ steering upgrade is a cheap and easy bolt-on mod that’ll beef up your XJ’s steering.

The OEM transmission lines on XJs can be difficult to work with due to their quick disconnect fittings, and the lines themselves are known to leak due to rusting out.

Old Man Emu is a great choice for lifting your XJ, but hunting down the correct part numbers can be difficult.

After having ran several autocross events with the Civic, I felt it was time to add a rear sway bar.

The B20B came in a few different versions.

I can’t believe it’s a been a year since I last worked on the XJ.

Pulling CEL codes for an OBD1 Honda is actually pretty easy.

The ultimate list of torque specs for B18A1, B18B1, B20B, B20Z2 engines.

Last year I ran the Integra in almost 20 events and had a great time.

Wrapping up the Civic has not been an easy task.

After 9 months of work the Civic is just about done!

Converting an EG Civic from manual to power windows, locks, and mirrors by building your own wiring harnesses is a moderately challenging task as it’ll require you to pull the dash, gut the doors, remove the fenders, dig into the main cabin harness, and g…

The two biggest lessons I’ve learned from all the wiring I’ve been doing on the Civic are to always double check your work at each step, and try to wire at a desk whenever possible instead of kneeling next to, or inside a car.

Planning out how to wire up the headlights and radiator fan took some time as my new fan had a higher amp rating which meant I couldn’t use the stock wiring, and the Denji headlights also required beefier wiring since the low beam bulbs are 55 watt.

In an effort to knock down the size of my TODO list I’ve been trying to wrap up the exterior of the car.

The brakes are officially finished on the car and I figured it was time to post up an overview of them.

The cabin harness has been giving me some grief because there’s too much wiring underneath where the dash will sit and it’s preventing the HVAC system from fitting.

Digging into the smaller details of the car has been pretty enjoyable.

It’s a relief having finished up all the bodywork on the Civic but I’m starting to feel short on time with the beginning of the race seasoning looming closer and closer.

Having spent so much time on bodywork when prepping the engine bay for paint, I’ve been resisting doing anymore of it just because I’m somewhat burnt out from it.

I couldn’t resist splurging and picking up a set of Denji headlights for the hatch.

As of lately it’s been hard for me to see the overall progress being made on the hatch because I’m working on too many small steps simultaneously.

With the engine back in the bay, I couldn’t resist starting to reassemble as much of the car as I could.

Before dropping in the motor, I wanted to make sure there wouldn’t be any surprises during re-assembly so I went through the engine bay and cleaned up every bolt / access hole.

Tired of looking at the rusty rear drums of your 92 - 95 Civic but don’t want to dish out the cash for disk trailing arms because of how expensive they are?

Bodywork is probably my least favorite step when it comes to a project.

I made a mistake in the wheel wells.

Having finished up the suspension (minus coilovers) I figured the next logical step would be to dive into the engine bay.

The suspension on my hatch was in rough shape.

With so many spots that needed to be addressed in the engine bay it was hard to pick where to start.

Even with the motor and transmission already pulled there was still a good chunk of parts that needed to be removed from the chassis.

The B20B I pulled out of the Civic was still perfectly healthy and didn’t really need much.

Itching to take a break from all the metal work I’ve been doing on my XJ, I decided to start with the transmission for my civic.

At the last auto-x event I ran in, I managed to get the Integra up on two wheels not once, but twice.

While installing an M-Factory LSD into my B18B1 (LS) transmission I made the dreaded mistake of damaging several teeth on the speedometer gear ring that sits on the differential.

I’ve owned my 1993 Civic Hatch for about 10 years now but it’s sat neglected in my shop for the last 3.

I’ve been having a blast auto crossing the Integra.

There’s a lot of rust on the driver side of my XJ, but it’s not as bad as the passenger side used to be.

Having finished the passenger side, it was a little daunting looking at the completely untouched driver side knowing I had so much work ahead of me.

It’s taken me roughly 3 times as long as I imagined to finish all the work on the passenger side, but it’s been well worth the effort.

Sometimes life does that thing where it gets in the way for awhile.

I’ve had my OG mig welder for about 8 years now.

Something I’ve been wanting for a long time is a bead roller so I can make my patch panels look more authentic.

Even though I’m making progress it sure feels like the parts pile is getting bigger as each week passes.

In this post we’ll continue building out the 2x6 rocker for the passenger side.